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SRAM X-0 X.0 Rear Derailleur 9 Speed Long Cage Mtb XC Carbon Fiber Alloy |
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Campagnolo 2011 Veloce 10-Speed Road Bicycle Rear Derailleur |
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Campagnolo Rear Derailleur Hanger bolt Chorus/Centaur/Daytona |
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Campagnolo Rear Derailleur
I'm going to teach in a few simple steps such as adjusting the rear derailleur of your bicycle. Having tried both Campagnolo and Shimano changes I have noticed that when you change a rear wheel on the other, even if the pin of the same make and model and having the same number of crowns, with Shimano almost always have to synchronize. If you have purchased the change and we will ride for the first time or leaving the chain on the pions outward or inward, this section is essential. This set-up that is only done once, at most when mismatch. Be appropriate to raise the wheel back, it it can be done with a gantry or other gadgets. We turn the wheel with pedals, hand, and act on the top screw to center the switch to the pin: Little as in Figure 1. If you lose a lot, it will get the string out, and if we press, go to the next pin. Still have not put the cable, as they now do, making sure that the command is in the pin up of more little ones, and that the tensors, both as the change of control, completely tightened estn . Put the cable tensioned and tightened the screw that presses. Now switch to the command to the pin more. If you change bad or does not reach the last pin nothing happens, it are. It's time to start loosening the tension cable from the exchange to take up slack. You have to loosen it a lot, to try to get the chain to leave at the top. Now we act on the small screw below, as in Figure 2, to focus the change in the upper crown. With these adjustments we have defined the field of action for change so that the chain does not slip out or inward. The last parameter that remains to be reviewed in this section is to change the separation of the pions. This is a screw that is in contact with the frame. If the top roller touches the pions, have to pull, trying to leave as close to the crown, but not touching. Only to the adjustment of these screws is really necessary. Do not touch them to play if the issues mentioned above will change it. Now we'll see how to adjust the synchronization of the change. This is what happens to most people. An operation is very simple: We put the chain on the second pinms pequeoy, acting on the tension cable, chain focused on that pin, as in Figure 3, tightening the cable until chain begins to make noise because he plays with the third pin. Then loosen slightly until it no longer makes noise and that's it. With this last point will solve the majority of desreglajes of change, but this can fail for other reasons: chain wear, cables . . If we can not adjust, it is best to take the bike to your usual workshop for a complete revision. In ordinary life we ??will only have to learn the last step, for which no tools needed, so we can regulate the change in the middle of an excursion up even if we act on the tensor placed controls change. . . .
